Pig: King of the Southern Table

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And where lesser authors might stray off-topic when moving to side dishes, Villas, with 13 cookbooks and two James Beard awards under his belt, knows better.

All 39 vegetable and rice dishes are chock full of oink, from the mushy turnips with bacon and pork to the slab bacon hoppin' John. Similarly, there are 20 breads that are decidedly not fat-free. That other Southern king, Elvis, would surely have appreciated the bacon-peanut butter muffins, perhaps chased down with a lard hoecake or some bacon-grease hush puppies.

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Pig meat: nothing is more communal than a pig roast. Next to it beef is positively boring. Pig meat is accessible and democratic. In Lark Rise to Candleford by Flora Thompson, she speaks of how little kids gather choice thistle and grasses during the day to feed to the family pig: A year-long family project to fatten the pig so that all could enjoy the sausage, flitches of bacon, salted hams, head cheese, chops, loin, blood puddings.

Notes about Recipes in this book

Pigs are the meat of choice for the sustainability crowd. We can survive, do for ourselves, a pig in a paddock proclaims.

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Pull up an overturned bucket, hunker down and watch a cow eat hay and you feel nothing. Watch a pig tuck into a trough of steamed zucchini, corn and stale bread and you shout Comrade!

Jim Villas - Pig: King of The Southern Table

Tonight we dined on what Cindy referred to as a keeper: Lacon Con Grelos, A Galician dinner that could be ripped from the pages of any decent Southern cookbook. We physically restrained ourselves from eating until sick. Fix this immediately and restore your soul, find a new center for well-being, toss out the yoga class, deliver up your Lipitor to the porcelain god.

Two noteworthy books have just appeared in print. It is fitting to review them in this number of britishfoodinamerica, for one of them covers traditional British food in a contemporary context and the other covers charcuterie in the American south. It is bound in brown bag or cardboard colored cloth and bears the authors and title in the sans serif typeface that conjures interwar Britain and the London Underground; a clean, recognizable design.

Pig : King of the Southern Table by James Villas (2010, Hardcover)

Canteen is a miniglomerate of interrelated businesses that include a commercial art studio, furniture designer and chain of restaurants that utilizes both of the other enterprises to create its look. The Canteeners may be forgiven, both because of the spare and elegant design of their restaurants, and because on balance the book itself is a wry and elegant production. The Canteen group has engaged in a sophisticated branding effort and it has worked: Three Canteens in London have joined the original Spitalfields restaurant.

Notes about this book

Their look is the look of their book, sleek evocations of a grittier tradition. Canteen has not published a pathbreaking cookbook.

Pig : King of the Southern Table by James Villas (, Hardcover) for sale online | eBay

Instead, Great British Food offers its readers what amounts to a primer on traditional British preparations. There are no postmodern attempts at innovation or evolution. There are, however, Scotch eggs and sausage rolls, potted foods and those beautiful pies, a series of roasts and instructions for bread sauce essential for roast chicken or duck , soused fish and coronation chicken.

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